Food Editor Sam Sifton on the Joy of Birds and the Perfect Birding Sandwich

Food Editor Sam Sifton on the Joy of Birds and the Perfect Birding Sandwich

Meals Editor Sam Sifton on the Pleasure of Birds and the Good Birding Sandwich

For numerous folks daunted by decision-making in the course of the pandemic, the culinary and all-around life recommendation in New York Occasions editor Sam Sifton’s Cooking and At Home newsletters present consolation and steering. Sifton, in the meantime, has discovered solace in a rediscovered interest: birding.

“Birds are a uncommon pleasure in a time that doesn’t provide a lot of them,” he says. 

Audubon not too long ago caught up with Sifton by cellphone (a lot to our mutual reduction: “I spend an excessive amount of time on video calls,” he says) to debate birding in the course of the pandemic, paralyzing indecision about the place to place feeders, and the important thing to that oh-so elusive gastronomic purpose: a sandwich made pre-dawn that doesn’t flip right into a soggy mess by lunchtime within the discipline. 

Audubon: What has your evolution as a birder been like?

Sifton: I used to be a fairly passionate birder as a child. I used to be born and raised in Brooklyn, however my father was a passionate outdoorsman and his mother and father lived in Maine. So I spent a whole lot of time with him as a child, searching and fishing, observing the pure world, and birds have been part of that. However then I misplaced it for a very long time.

When the pandemic got here and we stopped working within the newsroom in the midst of March, our household moved out to Greenport on Lengthy Island. I work in in my bed room, which has two home windows. And people home windows enable me to see a whole lot of birdlife, and have the fun of an opportunity sighting, just like the Scarlet Tanager I noticed the opposite morning. After which there’s a Cooper’s Hawk who hunts behind my home, the place there are a whole lot of little rabbits. I watch this little man with this elegant tail working the skies. I am like, he’s at work, too. 

A: Do you do your whole birding out of your home windows?

S: I’m additionally out within the early mornings and early evenings strolling or using my bike. And I am a passionate fly fisherman and I get out on the water in my boat, the place there’s extra birdlife. 

Being right here, observing the pure world, you see patterns emerge, like when the Ospreys returned this spring. I ended up in a dialog with the mailman, really, and he stated, “Yeah, I feel they’re per week early.” I used to be right here when the gannets got here in, and I watched them dive-bombing for bunker. It was superior. 

And right here in Peconic Bay, you’re like: Okay, so the bunker are right here, so the gannets are right here. So the striped bass are going to be right here quickly. And that’s simply form of neat. It’s one other dimension to our understanding of the world. Most individuals take a look at the climate, they take a look at the sky—it’s cloudy, it’s not cloudy. The bushes have leaves, they don’t have leaves. Noticing the birds and their motion, is one other approach of passing the time and discovering, or eager about our place within the pure world. 

A: Given every part that’s occurring on the planet, what has it meant to you to rediscover birding now?

S: 2020 sucks and pleasure is absolutely exhausting to return by. It’s tough. It’s tough to really feel pleasure when so many are struggling. It’s tough to really feel optimistic. We’re within the midst of three of the largest storylines of our lifetime, to make use of a newsroom time period. We now have the pandemic. We now have the protests which have developed because the homicide of George Floyd. We now have a consequential presidential election afoot. All of us are in a roundabout way caught at residence. That’s only a actuality.

And so the place do we discover pleasure? I make the argument within the e-newsletter that we discover it on the range, however I additionally make the argument that we will discover it on the planet if we simply look out. If we simply take note of the pure world. There might be one thing form of nice and superb about that. And it’s a approach of getting how a lot greater all that is, than simply us and our fears.

Time has additionally slowed in fascinating methods. It’s okay to cease and house out. My youngsters and I, we not too long ago stopped to the facet of the street as a result of we noticed some Barn Swallows, that are spectacularly stunning birds, and we simply spaced out and watched them for some time. 

A: How has your loved ones responded to your curiosity in birds?

S: They’re tolerant of me. And so they did acknowledge, as an example, within the case of these Barn Swallows, that these are cool.

A: Have you ever put up any feeders?

S: My neighbor has quite a few them, and I am deeply grateful for him for doing so, as a result of the birds are up and at ’em. I’ve spent roughly 5 months eager about whether or not I ought to have feeders and the place they need to go and failing to return to a conclusion. So I’ve not entered the feeder way of life as a result of I’m paralyzed by indecision about the place the feeder must be. It simply appears overwhelming to me. Not solely the place it ought to go, however which is the simplest one towards the dreaded squirrel or trash panda. There’s loads to consider. I’m new to this recreation.

A: And in addition to, there is likely to be a scarcity of squirrel baffles, with so many people turning into concerned with birds in latest months.

S: And now I do know the time period squirrel baffle. 

A: Welcome again into the hen world. So, have you ever began preserving an inventory?

S: I’m having fun with simply trying round. My life is lists. I’ve this new job as assistant managing editor for Tradition and Way of life, coping with a whole lot of totally different folks, a whole lot of totally different agendas, a whole lot of various things. And I take notes as a lot as I did once I was working as a reporter or critic. All the things is about lists. In a earlier world, on the planet earlier than the pandemic, I most likely could be preserving an inventory, like I do with books or music. However as I stated, birds are uncommon pleasure in a time that does not provide a lot of them. I do not need to screw it up.

A: That is sensible. Although, should you did need to maintain a hen record, you would use eBird, which is nice for locating extra birds whereas additionally contributing to neighborhood science. 

[Pause, during which the interviewer assumes that Sifton is Googling “eBird.”]

S: Oh wow. Suffolk County eBird. Wow. Lengthy-billed Dowitcher.

[Another pause.]

S: What. Come on, man. This man is reporting Frequent Terns. Nice. Herring Gulls—oh, noticed two of them, good for you. Barn Swallow, that might have been me. Wild Turkey, that might’ve been me—I noticed 5 this morning. Mute Swan—actually? It’s exhausting to overlook. Wow, it is a lame record. I’ve seen all of those birds. 

I’m positively stepping into this. 

A: I apologize for introducing you to this.

S: No, I’m completely into this. That is gonna be nice. Due to the boat, I’ll be in locations the place these guys can’t go. I’d see new issues. That is nice. 

A: Now for a hen and food-related query. For birders setting out for a protracted day within the discipline, what would you advocate they pack for lunch?

S: Packing some sandwiches might be actually nice.

The perfect road-trip sandwich is a baguette unfold with butter with ham. It is so freakin’ good, however that requires actually good ham, a very good baguette, and actually good butter, and in America throughout a pandemic that appears a little bit pretentious to be advocating. 

However somebody takes plain sandwich bread, slathers on condiments, places on the ham and cheese, wraps it up tight, and it’s simply disgusting by the point you need to eat it. If it’s sliced bread that you just’re coping with, versus bread that you just’re slicing your self, toasting is totally, completely important. It’s essential as a result of . . . No, I’m critical.

A: Sorry, I’m laughing as a result of a number of folks in our crew Slack channel requested: Are you able to please, please ask Sam Sifton methods to make a non-soggy sandwich?

S: Yeah, the essential step is to toast the bread as a result of it will increase the structural integrity of the slice. After which it’s important to take care with the way you layer the components within the sandwich so that you just don’t get extreme moisture. Take pickles for instance. I might put the pickles beneath the cheese and over the Bologna or no matter. So the pickles are going through impenetrable surfaces slightly than proper up towards the bread. 

A: You’re blowing my thoughts.

S: I’m right here to assist. 

This interview has been edited for size and readability.

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